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| ******************************** Week 20, 2005 THE BEST SELLERS (recent popular articles): 1) CNN/Global Office: Being nasty at work earns you more [Etre méchant au boulot rapporte.] 2) The Economist: French unemployment [Le chômage en France, dossier urgent mais difficilement traitable.] |
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THIS WEEK'S TEXTS 7) The Economist: Euro visions [Qu'ont en commun l'Union européenne et le concours Eurovision de la chanson ?] 8) The Economist: Tony le magnifique [Une passion passagère des Français envers Tony Blair.] 9) The New York Times/Vows: Banthin and Murphy [Une amitié de cinq ans se termine par un mariage. J'adore la guimauve !] 10) Slate/Food: The Way the Cookie Crumbles [La madeleine de Proust a-t-elle vraiment pu exister ? On teste les recettes.] 11) Associated Press: Detroit ponders fast-food tax [La ville de Détroit propose de taxer la restauration rapide.] 12) Slate/Moneybox: How dumb rich people end up in debt [Même les riches peuvent être assez débiles pour avoir recours au crédit à la consommation.] 13) New York Post: Size doesn't matter [Les New-yorkais doivent se satisfaire de petits logements. Personnellement, moi qui vis dans 31 mètres carrés, je ne trouve pas un studio de 45 mètres carrés particulièrement rikiki.... 10 square feet = 0,9 mètres carrés] 14) International Herald Tribune: To French workers, minutes add up [Le lundi de Pentecôte "travaillé". |
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******************************** (CNN) -- Being a nice person in the office may not necessarily be a wise career move. If you want to increase your salary, research shows that you may have to do it by being cold, disagreeable and antagonistic at work rather than by being nice. Not only do nice people finish last, they also finish
poorer. And the more devious and grumpier you are in the office the more
you are likely to earn, according to research published in the Journal
of Economic Psychology. Previously, economists thought that bosses were more likely to reward agreeable staff, since these employees respond positively to praise from managers. But the survey now shows that agreeable workers are less likely to push for more money or a promotion, because they are so pleasant. While those with "Machiavellian intelligence" -- the knowlege and ability to manipulate others -- also have the skills to manipulate their salary in a positive way. "It takes a different mentality to crush who ever is in your way to get somewhere," one businessman told CNN on the streets of New York. The study's authors say that there is a chance that agreeable people do not demand higher wages. They also found that "agreeableness is significantly associated with lower wages for women," the theory being that they are more agreeable than men. But not everyone CNN spoke to on the New York streets believed the results of the study. "I am not going to be less friendly or less agreeable to make more money," said one person. "The jerks go out the door. I think the nicer you are the universe compensates for it," said another. |
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******************************** IT IS early on a Friday, and the job-centre on the Rue Damrémont, on the northern fringes of Paris, is humming. Job-hunters browse offers pinned to the wall; others search on the internet. Massou, leafing through a folder of ads, has been looking for kitchen workcleaning or dishwashingfor eight months. Previous jobs, as a security guard and at a printing works, were short-term only. I've sent 20 CVs, but nobody has called me for an interview, he says. Faker, 29, is also looking for restaurant work, but says most ads are for part-time or temporary jobs. Even for those, he has had no offers in two months. When I ring, they say the job has gone. After dipping to 8.3% in 2001, unemployment in France has since been creeping relentlessly up. It hit 10.1% in January, well above the pre-enlargement EU average of 8.1%, and over twice Britain's 4.8%. For under 25s, unemployment is now over 22% (see chart). Worries about jobs, especially among the young, underlie much of the dislike of President Jacques Chirac's government, which faces a testing referendum on the draft EU constitution on May 29th. A new back-to-work plan is being implemented. But will it be enough? The government has at least grasped the importance of the problem. Jean-Pierre Raffarin, the prime minister, has promised to trim unemployment by 10%. Jean-Louis Borloo, minister for social cohesion and former mayor of the industrial town of Valenciennes, has pushed through a new law to revamp welfare and job schemes. Much of it is sensible and overdue. The public job-placement agency, ANPE, will face competition for the first time: at present, the private sector can offer only temping. New maisons de l'emploi (job-centres), loosely modelled on the British variety, will bring together recruitment, benefit and welfare services. By 2009, the number of apprenticeships will be increased by nearly 40%, to 500,000 a year. Over the next five years, a million people on welfare will be offered training and subsidised jobs. New fiscal incentives should help to create 500,000 domestic-service jobs over three years. The idea, says Mr Borloo, is to deal with labour-market dysfunction, and so reduce structural unemployment. Implementing all this, however, is particularly complicated in France. The government does not run unemployment insurance. This job falls to Unedic, which is co-managed by employers and workers, who jointly set rules on entitlements, based on personal contributions. These are hugely generous: the top monthly allocation, dictated by previous pay, can be as high as €5,700 ($7,420), against £243 ($466) in Britain. Meanwhile the government finances welfare for those without insurance rights, as well as job-placement. The upshot is fragmented, and inefficient. Getting the various agencies to work together is hard. Unedic and ANPE are currently squabbling over how to police benefit claims. Jean-Pierre Revoil, head of Unedic, told La Tribune this week that France had developed a welfare culture that needed tighter controls. In the new job-centres, it is unclear who will patrol the take-up of the new work schemesor how tough they should be. The system is voluntary, says Mr Borloo, who argues that abuse is exaggerated. We are not looking at suspension of benefits. Why does the government need such ambitious job schemes in the first place? Employment policies already cost €70 billion a year, yet they have done little to dent unemployment. Nor, Mr Raffarin has conceded, is it likely to shrink much before next year. The harsh answer is that the welfare system is not the real problem. Economic growth in France is job-poor. In effect, the French pay a price for the protectionsa high minimum wage, security from lay-offs, a short work-weekthat those in permanent full-time work enjoy. In labour-intensive sectors, France has become highly automated, and many new jobs are temporary. A Unedic survey shows that around one-third of the jobs employers expect to create in 2005 will be short-term. This introduces flexibility, but it also creates a two-tier system: comfortable, sheltered jobs for some; precarious, temporary ones for others. Young job-seekers tend most often to be excludedhence
their anxiety. Asked on television last week why Britain's unemployment
was so much lower, Mr Chirac replied that its social rules would be unacceptable
in France. In the Rue Damrémont, that falls flat: what is unacceptable
is not being able to find a job. |
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******************************** Sun's Up in Alaska Residents in Barrow, Alaska, packed away their flashlights, and turned off their lamps Tuesday, as they celebrated the arrival of the midnight sun. After setting for the final time this season at 1:50 a.m. Tuesday, the sun rose over the tiny Alaskan village an hour later. It will stay put for roughly the next three months, bathing the country's northernmost community in light 24 hours a day. "It will stay above the horizon until August 2, when the first sunset will take place," said Gina Sturm of the National Weather Service office in Barrow. Located 330 miles above the Arctic Circle, Barrow sees its share of dark days as well. The sun sets in mid-November, and the areas remains blanketed in darkness until late January. So after a long winter, many of Barrow's 4,500 residents embraced their beaming visitor. "It's almost like coming out of hibernation," said Diana Martin, a Barrow resident. "It brings us back to getting out and about." Nonstop streaming sunlight isn't always a day at the beach, especially when you're trying to get some shuteye. But many locals, like Ron Boynton, have invented homemade remedies to make sure they get their ZZZs. "We all learn to adapt during the year, and each develop our own little tricks," says the 23-year resident of Barrow. "Put tin foil on your bedroom windows." And no trips to the bathroom in the middle of the night . . . or else, you may be up for good! |
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******************************** A beautiful young princess had a dilemma. She was in love with Igor, the blacksmith's son and a hunchback, and she wanted to marry him. Sshe knew that her father, the king, would not approve. Furthermore, if the king knew of their love, he would surely have the young man executed. They devised a plan. They will run away to be married. Sadly, their plan fails, and they are stopped at the castle gates by the guards who spotted Igor's hump, of course. They are brought before the king. Now the king was indeed furious but decided to offer Igor a sporting chance, as they say. He said he would write the word "princess" on one piece of paper and the word "death" on another, and the young lad could decide his own fate by selecting one of the slips of paper from a jar. So the two slips are crumbled up, thrown in a jar. So the young man has his fate in his own hands. He has to draw a stupid paper from the jar. However, he knows the king is sneaky and has written "death" on both slips of paper. Despite this. Igor manages to win the princess's hand. How? |
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I wondered if you could address this issue with the hope of helping some men enter the 21st century: During a recent course of air travel, I was repeatedly offered unwanted, unsolicited "help" with my carry-on bag. I am 38. While I understand that some of the men -- those before my generation -- were taught that they must help a "lady" with her bags or be thought impolite, I think that others -- some younger and some older -- use it as an excuse to intrude themselves on an apparently single female traveler. Regardless of their motivation, I would like for them to understand my perspective: I do not want your help. I would never dream of asking for it. I am not so stupid as to pack a bag that I cannot handle myself. Though I am small, I am much stronger than you apparently think. I am NOT interested in meeting you or any other strange man in an airport, and if you touch my bag, you'll only annoy me. Who asked you to put your filthy, disease-ridden paws on my bag? No, I don't feel the need to be polite because you intruded with unwanted and unasked-for "help." And don't ever think of me as a "lady." A: And you may even achieve the 21st century for which you hope: a time in which whatever kindness is left is hounded by insult, and the only people who would dream of offering help to another human being are sexual predators. But why would you ask Miss Manners to assist you in bringing this about? Or address her at all? As you have amply demonstrated, you do not feel the need to be polite. -*-*-*- I have a girlfriend who insists on answering every question that I ask her with a question. She does this because she believes that I have hidden motives or an agenda. I get offended because while I may have a personal interest in the answers, I ask the questions because I genuinely care about her well-being. Isn't it considered rude to answer questions with questions. As a matter of practice, I never do this because I always considered it rude. Am I wrong, should I inquire into the hidden biases of my friends to protect myself? A: Yet there are reasons for doing so, other than suspicion (of which you suspect your friend) and idle curiosity (of which Miss Manners is guilty). Reversing the inquiry can be a show of reciprocal interest, although perhaps an ill-timed one, and it can be a way of clarifying the subject to be discussed. Most often, however, it means that the questioner has intruded on the other person's privacy. And yes, a legitimate sense of privacy still exists among those not auditioning for reality TV, and no, being in love does not automatically dissolve it. People have different boundaries and may be sensitive about one area and open about another. Try opening conversations instead of peppering the lady with questions and see whether she begins to open up at her own pace. Or you could ask her if anything about your questioning is bothering her, and have her reply, "Why -- is something bothering you?" |
| ******************************** 6) CNN/Global Office: End of an era for an American icon [Les gratte-ciel n'ont plus la côte, du moins aux Etats Unis.] http://www.cnn.com/globaloffice End of an era for an American icon Wednesday, May 4, 2005 Posted: 1233 GMT (2033 HKT) CHICAGO, Illinois (CNN) -- The era of the record-breaking American skyscraper is over, according to the firm of architects behind Chicago's Sears Tower, once the world's tallest building. The 442-meter (1,450-foot) Sears Tower, designed by Skidmore Owings and Merrill, has been the tallest building in North America since its completion in 1974. But since 1998 it has been surpassed in height by both the 452m (1,483ft) Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, and the 509m (1,670ft) Taipei 101 building in Taiwan. "I think that there was an era when tall was the equivalent of iconic and businesses wanted to demonstrate their prominence and power through the scale of their headquarters," said Skidmore partner Jeffrey McCarthy. "Today firms are more interested in branding their business by good design rather than by scale. There's less of an imperative to build tall, at least in the United States." The Freedom Tower, currently being built on the site of the devastated World Trade Center in Manhattan, will claim the title of tallest building in North America on its completion in 2008. But McCarthy says the real battle to build the world's tallest building has moved eastwards. "We're seeing perhaps the same motives, the iconic motives or the prominence of tall buildings being more acceptable in the Middle East and China these days," he told CNN. Skidmore's latest blockbuster skyscraper is the Burj Dubai tower. While final measurements are still a trade secret, rumor has it that the new tower will scale new heights. But Giles Worsley, architecture critic for the UK's Daily Telegraph newspaper, says tall buildings are ultimately just very expensive status symbols. "It's not about pure economics, it's about impressing," said Worsley. "It's about being noticed. You build a big tower, you get on postcards and you get on the news. It's more of a symbol than anything financially or economically essential." That desire to be noticed can backfire on a company. Sears moved out of its tower back in 1993 because of financial problems and many companies are no longer willing to take a risk on high profile, high-cost monumental office buildings that might end up symbolizing a misguided invincibility. Amid concerns over safety following the 9/11 terrorist attacks and a new emphasis on environmental sustainability, many companies in the U.S. are now choosing low-key campus-style headquarters, offering all the space of a skyscraper at a fraction of the cost. But McCarthy argues that re-locating to a campus can damage a company's ability to compete. "The campus is typically a very insular environment," he said. "It's introspective. Urban settings are much more outward looking. Even companies that are fairly secretive in their operations appreciate the importance of being in locations with their competitors." Worsley believes a compromise, somewhere between the campus and the skyscraper, offers businesses the best of both worlds. "By the time the World Trade Center collapsed it was no longer a glamorous place to be; they were relatively cheap offices," he said. "Smart people had moved away into lower buildings. "If you want to build efficient offices, you build what are called 'groundscrapers' -- perhaps eight or 10 stories high -- they're the more practical, efficient way of actually using space." But one look at the soaring skylines of Dubai or Shanghai proves that, in some parts of the world at least, prestige still comes before practicality. |
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******************************** Where the Eurovision song contest goes, Europe tends to follow WHICH cultural achievement best captures the spirit of Europe: the Mona Lisa, the Moonlight sonata, Hamletor Diggi-Loo, Diggi-Ley? No contest. In modern Europe it has to be the Swedish ditty that won the Eurovision song contest in 1984, whose cheery inanity captures the spirit of the annual pan-European event. Every year millions of Europeans tune in to Eurovision. This year's contest will be held in Kiev, Ukraine's capital, on May 21st. For those seeking evidence that Europe is more than a geographical expression, Eurovision is a rare example of a cultural event that engages the interests of people across the continent. T.R. Reid, a former London correspondent for the Washington Post, argues that the contest is playing an historic role. Eurovision has become a celebration of Europeanness that strengthens the growing sense among 500m people that they all belong to a single place on the world map. So what does the contest tell us about Europeanness? First, that Europeans, for all their sophisticated self-image, cannot resist costumes that involve sequins, lamé and plunging necklines. Second, that nursery babble is the preferred pan-European language: the 1984 Swedish entry was in the fine tradition of an earlier British winner, Boom-Bang-a-Bang, and a Dutch one, Ding Dinge Dong. But nonsense is now giving way to English, which dismays those who want Europe to remain a bastion of linguistic diversity. Georgios Karatzaferis, a Greek member of the European Parliament, has asked the European Commission to take action against the bastardisation of the contest, and the triumph of bad music and American words, by forcing contestants to sing in their national languages. This was the rule between 1977 and 1999; since then, all contestants have been free to choose any language. This year's favourite is Helena Paparizou, a Greek compatriot of Mr Karatzaferis, who will be singing My number one in English. Americans may appreciate the fact that Eurovision is often in their language, but find other features baffling, if not repulsive. Cultural conservatives would be struck by evidence of European moral degeneracy. In 1998 Eurovision was won by Dana International, an Israeli transsexual; in 2003, the most talked-about act featured a couple of Russian teenage girls whose performance involved fondling each other suggestively to a techno-beat. Janet Jackson's errant nipple seems tame by comparison. But the biggest single lesson of Eurovision is that Europe's centre of gravity is moving east. The contest is being held in Ukraine this year because a Ukrainian won in 2004. Over the previous three years, the winners were Turkey, Latvia and Estonia. The parallels with the European Union are obvious. The Eurovision song contest was the brainchild of Marcel Baison, a French music producer, who was an admirer of Jean Monnet. It got going in 1956 with a mere seven contestants; the Monnet-inspired European Economic Community was formed a year later with six countries. In both cases, membership was initially restricted to western Europe. Over time Eurovision and the European Union have both grown in popularity and membership. The EU now has 25 members; this year Eurovision has 39 contestants. Eurovision has expanded faster because it is easier to compose a mindless ditty and don a lamé costume than to pass the 80,000 pages of law needed to join the EU. But the new Eurovision entrants hopeand many old Europeans fearthat where Eurovision goes, the EU will one day follow. New entrants to Eurovision, rather like new entrants to the EU, also embrace the contest with a naive enthusiasm. By contrast, as the song contest and the EU have both grown in size, the older members have become increasingly jaded. When Estonia won the song contest in 2001, the country's politicians, who were enmeshed in negotiating the finishing touches to their EU entry terms, seized upon the victory's symbolic significance. As the Estonian prime minister expressed it at the time, we are no longer knocking at Europe's door. We are walking through it singing. The Ukrainians, who are eager to follow Estonia into the EU, are sure to use their staging of Eurovision next weekend to underline their membership of a wider European family. In honour of the occasion, they have even dropped all visa requirements for EU nationals. The Eurovision sceptics While the new participants enthuse, older members of the family are getting distinctly cynical about the whole Eurovision thing. British television commentary is doused in irony and often draws attention to the way in which neighbours tend to vote for one another: the Greeks and Cypriots can always be relied upon to give each other high scores, and there is plenty of Baltic and Nordic solidarity. This goes to confirm the ingrained British prejudice that the odds in Europe will always be unfairly stacked against them. Indeed in Britain, the whole event is now regarded as a high-camp joke. A British contestant who scores the fabled nul points is likely to get far more attention than one who achieves respectable mediocrity. Other western European countries also take Eurovision less seriously. The Irish, serial winners in the 1990s, now feign indifference. Denis Staunton of the Irish Times wrote in 2002 that trying to win the contest seemed to jar with our new, nonchalant, national self-image. The Italians, who gave Eurovision one of its few memorable songs in 1958 (later released as Volare), no longer bother to enter. As for the French, who won three of the first seven Eurovisions, they have not had a winner since 1977. The French referendum on the EU constitution takes place eight days after this year's contest. At a time when France agonises over its declining influence in the new, enlarged EU, it might be politic to let it win the new, enlarged Eurovision. And certainly to avoid a winner like Waterloo, Eurovision's all-time favourite, with which ABBA took the prize for Sweden in 1974. |
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******************************** THE standard French critique of Tony Blair has it that he is George Bush's
poodle and an ultra-libéral who runs a Dickensian country where
the economy may boom but state schools crumble and hospitals stink. Strange,
then, to witness an outpouring of admiration for Mr Blair during the recent
British election. Tony le Magnifique ran a headline in L'Express.
A leftish weekly, Le Nouvel Observateur, devoted eight pages to Why
the English are better than us. The British miracle
should be a model for us, chimed in Le Figaro, a daily. Even President
Jacques Chirac, who recently dismissed the British economic model as unacceptable,
cooed, in a letter to Mr Blair, about the closeness that has grown
between us over the years. Why the sudden change? Mr Blair is younger and more dynamic than France's president, who celebrated ten years in the Elysée last week, and 40 years in elected office in March. Even British-style Euroscepticism is newly popular in France, ahead of its referendum on the EU constitution on May 29th. But the biggest explanation is low British unemployment of 4.8%, less than half the French rate of 10.2%. French commentators used to dismiss low British unemployment as a statistical manipulation, or a product of an ill-paid McJobs culture. But now some wonder if it reflects genuine policy choices. There is admiring talk about efficient British job-centres. Nor is it only low unemployment that draws envy. The French feel the pinch in their pockets, while British average earnings are steadily growing. The British seem also to have made peace with the forces of globalisation and de-industrialisation that continue to haunt the French. Thus, while France's political leaders tear their hair out trying to rescue ailing industries, British voters can coolly re-elect a government that allowed the only carmaker still in British ownership to close, and in the middle of an election campaign to boot. If you lose your job, says an apparently startled Le Nouvel Observateur, the economy guarantees you another. Will the seduction last? Unlikely: the French envy the outcome of British labour-market policy more than its flexible nature. Most are reluctant to surrender the job protection that hinders job creation. When Mr Blair takes over the EU presidency in July, he will embody more than ever the ultra-libéral economic model that has provoked so much recent French hostility to Brussels. In short, it is a matter of time before Tony le Magnifique resumes his traditional role as Tony le Manichéen. |
| ******************************* 9) The New York Times/Vows: Banthin and Murphy [Une amitié de cinq ans se termine par un mariage. J'adore la guimauve !] http://www.nytimes.com/2005/05/08/fashion/sundaystyles/08vows.html By ELAINE LOUIE Published: May 8, 2005 THEIR tale of a love nearly unrequited is the stuff of Nora Ephron movies.
And it took four years before Alyssa Banthin and Brian Murphy could see
what had been obvious to those around them. What they thought was "in
like" was really "in love." As graduate architecture students at the University of Pennsylvania, Ms. Banthin and Mr. Murphy worked side by side 18 hours a day, dining together, talking shop and becoming best friends, soul mates and gentle critics of each other's work. To be sure there were outside forces working to keep their relationship platonic. First, Ms. Banthin was engaged to her high school sweetheart, an insurance consultant, who flew in and out of Philadelphia. Second, Mr. Murphy had a girlfriend. As he recalled of the day they met at Penn, in 1998, "It wasn't any sort of fairy tale romantic moment, that she walked by and I forgot my name." Mr. Murphy, 32 and an architectural designer at Tsao & McKown Architects in Manhattan, added, "What bound us together was a shared perspective of why we were there." Ms. Banthin, an architectural designer at Edelman Sultan Knox Wood/Architects in Manhattan who is also 32, said they shared a love of the architects Antonio Gaudí and Victor Horta. "We like their very organic forms," she said. "It's not sterile." As undergraduates, he played guitar and liked jazz, choral and world music at the University of Pittsburgh, and she pursued modern dance at Middlebury College. So when they had to design a dance studio at Penn, they bonded more, talking about bodies and voices sailing through space. Still, Ms. Banthin said, "I didn't have a secret crush on him," adding, "He was very nice, but his work intrigued me more because he draws beautifully." She also admired his dedication to his girlfriend. "I had a boyfriend who just wasn't physically present," she said. Mr. Murphy, for his part, loved Ms. Banthin's sense of play. Then in June 1999 she married her fiancé. In the fall of 2000 she, Mr. Murphy and some classmates went to study for a semester at the Architectural Association in London, sharing a house, along with her husband, who she said continued to travel. Mr. Murphy, who had broken up with his girlfriend, was dating. But when Ms. Banthin's husband or Mr. Murphy's latest girlfriend was not around, they walked about London as friends, hand-not-in-hand. "Sparks did not fly," Mr. Murphy insisted. Friends disagreed. "She talked about him 80 percent of the time," said Rachel Esch, a Middlebury friend of Ms. Banthin's. In 2001, Mr. Murphy was living in Manhattan. So were Ms. Banthin and her husband. She wanted a career and children, but could not figure out how with a husband who she said spent half his time out of town. By June 2002 she was divorced. Even as Mr. Murphy helped her cope with her loneliness by having dinner with her, he was not in a romantic mode. He could not find a full-time architecture job. In July he told her he might join the Peace Corps. "Oh no, you can't leave," Ms. Banthin recalled saying. "What will I do?" That was the moment. "If we spend all of our time together, there must be a reason," she said. "So, should we spend more time together?" That was the night of their first kiss, and on April 23, 2004, they decided to marry. They were wed exactly one year later by the Rev. John Davies, a United Church of Christ minister and an uncle of the bride, at the Nicholas Roerich Museum on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, where the walls are hung with densely saturated depictions of Russian churches and of India by Roerich, a Russian painter and disciple of yoga. Friends read passages from the Bhagavad-Gita, Emerson and Shakespeare, which also appeared on the couple's seven-page wedding invitation, designed by her and drawn by him. Before the ceremony, Abraham Silver, a Penn classmate, said: "I
thought they had a secret crush on each other. Absolutely. It's easier
for someone on the outside to see how comfortable they are with each other."
He added, "When I said to a friend that Brian and Alyssa are engaged,
she said, 'Finally.' " |
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10) Slate/Food: The Way the Cookie Crumbles [La madeleine de Proust a-t-elle vraiment pu exister ? On teste les recettes.] http://slate.msn.com/id/2116329 The Way the Cookie Crumbles: How much did Proust know about madeleines? By Edmund Levin Posted Wednesday, May 11, 2005, at 7:27 AM PT The missing madeleine But Proust left out one important detail: the recipe. And no one ever asked him for it. Many cookbooks claim that you can reproduce Marcel Proust's magical madeleine in your own kitchen. But do any of the recipes yield the genuine article? I decided to reverse-engineer Proust's madeleine, using hints the author gives in Remembrance of Things Past, in an effort to find out. In the renowned passage, the fleeting taste of this cake/cookie calls to life the world of the narrator's childhood in Belle Epoque France. For the attentive reader, the clues to The Recipe for The Madeleine are in the text: She (Marcel's mother) sent for one of those squat plump little cakes called "petites madeleines," which look as though they had been molded in the fluted valve of a scallop shell I raised to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had soaked a morsel of the cake. No sooner had the warm liquid mixed with the crumbs touched my palate than a shudder ran through me and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary thing that was happening to me. An exquisite pleasure invaded my senses And suddenly the memory revealed itself. The taste was that of the little piece of madeleine which on Sunday mornings at Combray when I went to say good morning to her in her bedroom, my aunt Leonie used to give me, dipping it first in her own cup of tea or tisane . and the whole of Combray and its surroundings, taking shape and solidity, sprang into being, town and garden alike, from my cup of tea. What can we glean from this passage? Proust's madeleine was quite dry. It demanded not just a quick dunk, but immersion to "soften" it (according to the new translation by Lydia Davis, said to be the most accurate). And, you'll note, Marcel never bites the cookie. The memory surge is triggered by crumbs. The Crumb Factor is the key to this culinary mystery. A close analysis of the text yields the following sequence: Marcel 1) breaks off and drops the morsel into the tea. 2) The madeleine piece then wholly or partially disintegrates during its immersion. 3) Marcel then fishes about with his spoon, yielding a spoonful of tea mixed with crumbs. The question, then: What recipe would deliver this dry, extraordinary crumb-producer? Modern food science gives clear guidelines. To make a cake less moist, you put in less moisture and less fat. That means less butter and fewer eggs. And less sugar, too. Sugar is "hygroscopic"meaning it helps baked goods retain moistureso you want to keep it to a minimum. Also high on the list of no-nos: resting the batter. Resting allows the flour to absorb the batter's liquid and results in a moister product. Running through this list of Proustian baking "tips"which reads more like a catalogue of baking "don'ts"the great man's signature dish was beginning to sound less than appealing: a pathetic, parched product, not a buttery treat. My criteria knocked many supposedly "authentic" recipes out of contention. In The Way To Cook, Julia Child touts hers as "presumably the true Madeleine from Commercy, the one Marcel Proust dipped in his tea." But she turns out to be an incorrigible batter rester. Not only that, she beats the flour into the egg and sugar mixture, a sure way to develop the flour's gluten and produce a denser, uncrumby madeleine. Dining With Proust, a cookbook that re-creates dozens of dishes from Remembrance, is co-authored by Anne Borrel, founder of the Proust Museum in Illiers-Combray. But the book's recipe calls for resting the batter a full hour-and-a-half and, worst of all, includes honey, notorious for its hygroscopic properties. I found two recipes that looked promising. In the Food Lover's Guide to Paris, French food expert Patricia Wells champions dry madeleines. "The best, freshest madeleine has a dry, almost dusty taste when eaten on its own," she tells us. Being soaked in tea is what brings it to life. The relatively low butter, sugar, and egg content in Wells' recipe gave me hope. In The Making of a Cook, Madeleine Kamman traces her recipe's lineage back to the 18th century and maybe even to "Madeleine Paumier the young girl who presented the first known madeleines to King Louis XV of France." She is adamant that the flour be folded into the batter, not beaten, to avoid the dreaded gluten development. Neither a batter beater, nor a batter rester, she was my strongest candidate. I pulled out my mother's old early-Julia Child-era imported madeleine molds and set to work. My first batch of the Kamman madeleines came out of the oven smelling great but looking terrible. I picked up one of the misshapen blobs. Not much resemblance to Proust's "little scallop shell pastry, so richly sensual under its severe, religious fold." But was it a crumb-producer? I broke off a piece, dropped it into a glass of tea, and waited a minute. I prodded the cookie with my spoon. Looking very closely I saw only two small bits at the bottom of the glass. I stirred again, and a couple more appeared. The crumb production was underwhelming. A madeleine morsel, it turns out, is a hardy little customer. Protected by a lightly browned layer, it does not disintegrate. Close examination revealed that it doesn't truly "soften," but absorbs liquid like a sponge, retaining its structural integrity. The locus of crumb production is confined to the narrow, exposed lens-shaped surface at the break-off line. Would another recipe yield more Proustian results? Patricia Wells' fared no better. (Except, perhaps, in terms of taste. Her madeleines, supposedly "dry, dusty" tea-soaker-uppers, were delicious on their own. Half the batch disappeared while the tea was brewing.) Wells' madeleines produced no more crumbs than Kamman's. Julia Child's, as I expected, were equally crumb-free. Things were looking bad for M. Proust. The sickly author, who hardly left his cork-lined bedroom in Paris for a dozen years, from 1910 until his death in 1922, supposedly channeled an entire world in all its precise sensations, setting it down on paper for us to re-experience. But my mind was afflicted with a blasphemous thought: Could Proust's madeleine ever have existed? Could it be he made it all up? I had one theory in reserve. Maybe Proust's Madeleine was stale. Unthinkable? Not necessarily. Proust was not finicky about his sensory stimulithe fictional Marcel is even propelled into a reverie at one point by the dank smell of a lavatory. I left my remaining madeleines outside, uncovered, defying instructions to keep them "stored in a tightly closed tin." After three days I brewed a glass of tea. I broke off a piece of madeleine and plopped it in. The result: about the same as before. I stirred, took a spoonful. A few brown bits swam in the spoon. I tasted. And here came the shocker: I could not taste the crumbs. Madeleine crumbs, once detached from the mother morsel, are quite delicate. They almost dissolve. It turns out they are insensible to the tongue. I called my wife into the kitchen (her initial comment: "Does Proust explain who cleaned up?") for an objective opinion. She has a fine palate, but couldn't taste the crumbs either. Confounded, I decided to confer with leading Proust authorities. I discovered a major obstacle: the eminent professor William Carter, author of Marcel Proust: A Life, who had supervised a re-creation of the famous scene for a PBS documentary. The professor was skeptical. He was turned off by my notion that Marcel had "dissolved pieces of madeleine floating around in his teacup," calling it "not likely." And, to my surprise, he asserted that Marcel does dunk and bite the madeleinewhich would mean there's no crumb production mystery to be explained. The professor insisted that the crumbs are simply created in the narrator's mouth after he bites off a morsel and shmooshes it around. I objected that no biting, or shmooshing, is mentioned in the text. The professor insisted it is "implied." But, in my view, Proust was simply too obsessed with detail to let something as significant as biting, let alone shmooshing, go unnoted if that's what he had in mind. Much to my relief, I found firm support from MacArthur "genius" grant-winner Lydia Davis, the translator of the widely praised new edition of Proust's Swann's Way, in which the famed passage appears. She finds no "implied" biting in the text, and calls mere dunking "out of the question." She concurs that the crumby madeleine material is already in the spoon as it approaches Marcel's mouth. The tie-breaker was Stanford professor Joshua Landy, a Proust scholar who declares himself firmly in my "crumbs in the spoon" camp. I'd given Proust a more-than-fair shot. His failure to account for extraordinary crumb production was manifest. Case closed, then: Proust's madeleine did not, does not, and never could have existed. To put it bluntly: Proust didn't know from madeleines. This may be less than surprising. As it turns out, Proust's original model may have been a piece of soggy toast. In an early version of the scene, the narrator is offered a piece of "dry toast" which he dips in his tea. The "bit of sopped toast" triggers the familiar surge of memory. This fact is not advertised to tourists making the pilgrimage to Illiers-Combray, where madeleines are sold by the bushel, and one patisserie does good business claiming Proust's family as patrons. But Proust must have understood the madeleine's power. Otherwise he would have just left us the soggy toast. A well-made madeleine (and, please, rest the batter) is that rare thing: perfection itself. The shape, so pleasing to the eye, the double surface texture (ridged on one side, smooth on the other)and, yes, the buttery, lemony taste. Make a batch. Take a bite. An "exquisite pleasure" will invade your senses. And you will have your own madeleine memories. ^RETURN TO TOP^ |
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11) Associated Press: Detroit ponders fast-food tax [La ville de Détroit propose de taxer la restauration rapide.] http://www.nytimes.com/aponline/business/AP-Big-Mac-Tax.html May 8, 2005 Detroit Ponders Fast - Food Tax By THE ASSOCIATED PRESS DETROIT (AP) -- Would you like fries with that? Either way, the Detroit city treasury would like a bite. Faced with a $300 million budget hole, Mayor Kwame Kilpatrick is hoping people in this already heavily taxed city won't mind forking over a few extra cents for their Big Macs and Whoppers. Kilpatrick wants to ask Detroit voters to approve a 2 percent fast-food tax -- on top of the 6 percent state sales tax on restaurant meals. The mayor says consumers will barely notice the extra cents at the cash register, but critics say the tax would unfairly burden the poor and hamper economic development. ''Just tell him we're going to go to Bloomfield Hills to McDonald's if he puts a tax on it,'' said 18-year-old Ebony Ellis, referring to an affluent Detroit suburb, as she and four friends ate at a Golden Arches in Detroit. The high school classmates eat at McDonald's every day after school because their schedule doesn't leave them time for lunch. Other cities and states have special taxes on prepared food, and some have tried ''snack taxes.'' In New York, Assemblyman Felix Ortiz has proposed a 1 percent tax on junk food, video games and TV commercials to fund anti-obesity programs. But if approved, the Detroit tax would be the country's first to target fast-food outlets, the National Restaurant Association said. The tax would apply to anything sold at a fast-food restaurant -- even salads. Opponents have been quick to call it a ''fat tax'' in this city dubbed the nation's fattest in 2004 by Men's Health magazine. Detroit fell to No. 3 for 2005. City officials say the proposal, part of the draft budget Kilpatrick presented to the City Council last month, is more about Detroit's financial health than anything else. Although the tax would not come close to fixing Detroit's financial problems -- officials predict it would bring in $17 million in the next fiscal year -- every dollar counts in a city already bracing for mass layoffs and service cuts. Enacting the tax would likely require a change in state law, potentially a tough sell in the Republican-controlled Legislature. The tax also would require the approval of Detroit voters. Young people and senior citizens are big consumers of fast food and would bear an unfair share of the tax's burden, some critics contend. ''It's really going to fall upon poor people harder,'' said Robert Wassmer, a professor of public policy and economics at California State University, Sacramento. The restaurant industry says the idea is also unfair to businesses. ''We think it's extremely counterproductive to say to those people who have provided jobs, who have provided growth, 'We're going to levy on you a special tax that we don't levy on anyone else,''' said Andy Deloney of the Michigan Restaurant Association. But Kilpatrick insists an additional 2 percent -- a nickel on a $2.50 Big Mac -- would have little effect on the pocketbooks of the average resident or the competitiveness of Detroit eateries. And the fact is, there aren't many options. ''With Detroit, you're kind of grasping at straws because the tax base is so tapped into,'' Wassmer said. The city currently has five major revenue streams: state revenue sharing, an income tax, property taxes, a tax on its three casinos and a utility tax. Michigan law limits Detroit's ability to raise income and property taxes, and high taxes are already cited as a major reason people and businesses have fled the city, further depleting the tax base. In a study by the District of Columbia comparing Washington and the biggest cities in each state, Detroit in 2003 had the 10th-highest tax burden for a family of four with an income of $75,000. State and local taxes combined totaled 11 percent, according to the study. An overall meals tax not limited to fast food is out, Deputy Mayor Anthony Adams said. The mayor likes to boast that 22 new restaurants have opened downtown in the last three years. A tax on all restaurants might hamper this fledgling development, while the city's fast-food market is ''pretty mature,'' Adams said. And just how is ''fast food'' defined? Besides the obvious chains like
Wendy's and White Castle, officials have mentioned takeout pizza places
and Detroit's ubiquitous chili dog restaurants known as Coney Islands.
It's uncertain, however, where Starbucks or the corner deli would fall.
The administration says it is still working on a definition.
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******************************* The Neiman Marcus Paradox:
How dumb rich people end up in debt. One of the best scenes in Tom Wolfe's The Bonfire of the Vanities was when Sherman McCoy enumerated his expensesthe private school, the birthday party, the summer house, the jewelry, the taxesand fretted that he was having difficulty making it on $1 million a year. And that was in the mid-1980s! The rich are different than you and me. They shop at better stores, and they don't fly commercially. But in one way, they are very much the same: A fair number of them spend more than they make. At the high end of American society, as at the low end, debt is apparently becoming the fuel of choice for the engine of consumption. Yes, most rich people easily pay for all their baubles. In last Friday's Wall Street Journal Robert Frank noted, "The richest 1 percent controlled 33 percent of the nation's total wealth in 2001, yet they held only 6 percent of its debt." But they still owe plenty. Frank cited research by Federal Reserve economist Arthur Kennickell noting that in 2001, the U.S. households with more than $5.9 million in net worththe top 1 percentowed $346 billionmost of it tied up in house mortgages. What's more, "borrowing among the richest Americans has grown in the past few years as interest rates have remained historically low." Traditionally, debt has been associated with poverty. But in the modern age it has been re-imagined as leveragea powerful force that lets you lift more than you otherwise could. And a big chunk of today's rich-folk indebtedness is surely related more to leverage than to an inability to pay current bills. Many rich people probably think (and rightly so, from experience) that they can get a higher return on cash than the interest they pay. Borrowing at 6 percent to pay for that ski house in Aspen is a no-brainer if you can earn 15 percent with your hedge-fund manager or by opening a new store. But not all the rich folks' debt is strategic. Many high-end home-buyers, for example, are engaging in the same type of desperate maneuvers as hard-pressed middle-income purchasers. With prices rising, many first-time buyers in hot markets have turned away from fixed-rate mortgages to interest-only and so-called negative amortization loans (lower interest, no principal, and not even all the interest). James Grant, editor of Grant's Interest Rate Observer, noted with alarm an advertisement in the Wall Street Journal for interest-only loans with a negative-amortization option available for up to $5 million. Who is using these? "The rich who happen not to have money," he concludes. And the rich are also capable of amassing idiotic debt. Frank cited a survey by Spectrem Group that found 14 percent of people with more than $5 million in assets have credit-card balances. That's mystifying, since credit-card cash is perhaps the most expensive form of money legally available. For decades, Neiman Marcus has occupied an admirable niche as the destination of choice for extreme consumers. The department store chain was recently the subject of a fevered auction, and one of the most desired parts of the business, as the New York Times reported in April, was its private-label credit-card business. Neiman Marcus accepts only American Express and Neiman Marcus credit cards. The in-house card unit, which counts some 562,000 active users, has about $550 million in receivablesmeaning about one-sixth of the company's 2004 sales was bought on layaway. In Connecticut, the interest rate on a Neiman Marcus card is a whopping 15 percent. Now, it could be that many of these borrowers are New American Luxury-types, middle-income fashion victims who buy groceries at A&P but splurge on shoes at Neiman Marcus. But a lot of these card-holders could simply be rich people who are either living beyond their means or have atrocious money-management skills. We know from recent experience that the very rich can be just as reckless about aligning monthly cash flow with obligations as the poor. And we know that income volatility, one of the factors that push lower-income workers into debt, can affect those in the upper tax brackets. Bernard Ebbers of WorldCom borrowed hundreds of millions of dollars from the company he ran to buy ranches and a boatyardand had difficulty paying it all back. When Enron's stock plunged, ex-CEO Kenneth Lay was forced to hold an asset fire sale to meet loan obligations. These may be extreme examples. But I'm guessing there are plenty of rich folks who need a sit-down with Suze Orman, or a copy of Jean Chatzky's Pay It Down. ^RETURN TO TOP^ |
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******************************* SIZE...DOESN'T MATTER By MAUREEN CALLAHAN HE lives without books, magazines or CDs. She sleeps on a used $20 mattress and can fit all of her clothes into a single suitcase. He has carved storage space into almost every piece of furniture he owns. On the following pages, you'll meet four New Yorkers who've mastered the art of living in excruciatingly tiny apartments - all made beautiful, and livable, with a few space-saving tricks. These homes were all finalists in the first "Smallest, Coolest Apartment" contest hosted by apartmenttherapy.com, a design site for and about New Yorkers. (About 2,500 city dwellers voted in the competition, which ended Friday.) "Your space just needs to reflect your personality," says Metropolitan Home's Linda O'Keeffe, who evaluated the finalists for The Post. "All of these people had cookie-cutter apartments, but they didn't deal with them in a cookie-cutter way." That's high praise, given that a studio apartment smaller than 500 square feet cost an average $308,000 last year - an amount that elsewhere in the country would buy "a 2,500-square-foot ranch on a quarter of an acre," says Jonathan Miller, a top Manhattan real estate appraiser. But those who live happily in coffin-sized dwellings say that even if you rent (which all of our finalists do), money spent on making a small space feel bigger is a smart investment. "I need to have a great place to live in," says finalist Robert Nassar, who spent about $18,000 renovating his 300-square-foot space - even though friends warned him that since he didn't own, he'd never see the return on his investment. "But my return," says Nassar, "was my piece of mind." -*-*-*- Size: 185 square feet Biggest challenge: "My budget." Solution: Think of limited space and funds "as an exercise in living simply," says Hillary, who pays less than $800 a month to rent this studio. She got rid of all her CD cases ("they took up too much room"), tucked the discs into the CD jackets and tacked them on the wall to create a piece of functional art. What she spent: Mattress, $20 (used); chair, $20, both found on craigslist. She spent $20 on a new rice cooker and another $40 on a new mattress cover for a total of $100. Favorite resources: Craigslist and freecycle.com - "everything on it is free!" Golden rule: Again, it all comes down to lack of clutter. "Most of my stuff is in my dad's garage, but I'll probably sell it now. It makes me feel good that I don't need a lot of stuff." O'Keeffe says: "The notion of turning everyday objects into art" - like Hillary did with her CD collection - "is a brilliant solution." That said, "she could have hanging storage under her loft bed." -*-*-*- Apt: 300 square feet Biggest challenge: "A really intrusive neighbor who tried to get me evicted" during renovations on the apartment he rents for less than $1,500 a month. Solution: "I'd leave boxes of chocolate outside his door when I knew there would be banging." It didn't work, but ultimately, the cranky neighbor "was powerless. My landlord's used to people complaining all the time." What he spent: Architectural expenses, $5,000. (Nassar hired contractors to seal up one doorway and create another and expand the kitchen from 3 feet to 8 feet.) The rug's from ABC Warehouse; bookcases and entire kitchen from IKEA. Favorite resources: Canal Street; IKEA. Golden rule: No - surprise! - clutter. "It's the most crucial thing in a small space - you take off your shoes and the place is a mess. Keep everything out of sight. My vacuum is under my bed; my broom is in the large cabinet next to my bookshelf; my couch has storage built in behind it, underneath it - even under the cushions." Best advice: Never try to rip off one look entirely. "Look in magazines to get ideas, but don't emulate them exactly." O'Keeffe says: "He has a simple color palette, good storage and the strongest sense of architecture." -*-*-*- Size: 450 square feet Upper West Side Biggest challenge: Limited funds and a roommate. Solution: Specketer (who pays more in rent, since he sleeps in the loft) told his roommate he was going to redesign the space on his own, with no input allowed. "My roommate was like, 'You're the architect; do what you want.' He loves it. Our friends love it - everyone always comes over here for pre-party drinks." What he spent: Paint and supplies, $30; wardrobe, $125 from IKEA; three black tables (to form makeshift coffee table), $15 each from Target; metal desk from VFW in Kansas City, $100. Two end tables found on the street, $0. Favorite resources: Craigslist and eBay: "In New York, the market is so overpicked that people jack up the prices. But on eBay you can find vintage Eames chairs in the Midwest for much cheaper." Golden rule: No clutter - especially when you share a tiny space like this with a roommate, as Brandon does. "If you bring one thing in, throw one thing out. Burn your CDs and sell them. With magazines, rip out the pages you want, put them in a binder and throw them out. Clothes - donate what you're not wearing." Best advice: Even if you know nothing about design, don't be intimidated: "It's like being insecure about how you look. Don't try to fit an image to impress people. If you wear what you want, you'll look good. The same philosophy extends to apartments." O'Keeffe says: "I loved the marrying of function and design. He has a very good sense of proportion, and I liked the reduced color palette." -*-*-*- Size: 485 square feet Biggest challenge: Clutter. "I lived in this apartment with an uncomfortable level of clutter 'till I figured out what to do with it." Hamilton suggests other pack rats do the same - wait until you know exactly what kind of storage you need. (Otherwise, containers will just replace your clutter, rather than conceal it.) Solution: Toss old magazines, CDs, etc., and make the most of what you have: "I put drawers, bins and double-backed hanging rods in the closet - that gave me two-thirds more space." Key pieces everyone should have: "A console that doesn't scream 'living room' or 'bedroom.' Good lighting, even if it's a colored light bulb. A table that can work for dining and as a desk." Favorite resources: Crate & Barrel, Design Within Reach and IKEA: "If I were building a kitchen from scratch, I'd go there." Golden rule: Mix it up. "People fall into the trap of getting everything from one place." Budgeting tip: "Know what you need the most, buy what you love the most" and sacrifice accordingly. "I don't go to restaurants that much, and I don't travel much, either. I'd rather put my money into my apartment." O'Keeffe says: "He has a very sophisticated sense of color, but he still needs to remove some stuff and watch the open storage." ^RETURN TO TOP^ |
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******************************* PARIS One minute and 52 seconds is the time it might take an employee
to remove his coat and begin booting up his computer, or maybe to dart
off for a trip to the water cooler. In France this year, it is the additional
time that staff at the national railroad company were asked to work each
day as their contribution to a "solidarity fund" for the handicapped
and elderly. The rail workers' response: not unless we get paid for it. |